Day 179

I'm woken up and given a cup of tea, which helps with the early start to get to the Cathedral for morning mass. My host and I head to the cathedral. It's busier than I expect, but excluding myself, it's entirely clergy. They also can't find their stamp. My host then takes me to the Abbey Gardens, and the ruins. It's a rush, and then we're back to her house, and we're setting off.

I quickly discover she is much, much faster than me. If I didn't have my bag, I could certainly keep pace, but with it, I'm struggling to keep up. The conversation is easy, and we talk about class, and how the title of 'pilgrim' helps. It is an insecurity I have, the fact that I'm offered meals, and wonderful experiences, and generous, warm hospitality on the basis of being a pilgrim, which because it's rooted in faith, is seen as a more noble thing than 'tramp' or 'wayfarer'.

I talk too about my other insecurity, which I've managed to pin down as the fact that I'm able to live the life I want to be living, and can do so joyfully and with an amount of ease. I feel selfish for this every day of my life. But, I'm reminded, it's not like I haven't worked for it. I have established my niche as a 'content creator' (someone called me that the other day and I felt sick, though it's technically correct'. I also have other paid work, and still exist within the system of labour. It's labour I don't mind doing, but it still counts.

We travel along some lovely paths, and by the time we part at lunchtime, sat outside a beautiful little church, still in her Easter dressing, I've already covered eight miles, which is a lot for me so early. I've also lost the new jumper I was given in Wymondham somewhere along the way. My host is walking back the same way, and she finds it, but getting things posted to me is a nightmare, so I tell her to hang on to it.

I carry on along a road to Barrow. Then I sneak behind a hedge and do some minor trespassing, to avoid being on the road. I reach Barrow. If we'd walked along the road, this village was only 6 miles from where we started in Bury. I've already walked 13. I find a cake cupboard, and buy myself a cookie and a chocolate brownie, which are both delicious, before getting on the bus.

£4 for a ten minute bus journey has to be one of the worst rates going. But it's the only option, and soon enough, I'm in Gazeley.

The ceiling of the chancel in Gazeley Church is covered with medieval wooden carved tiles. They're currently undergoing conservation work though, so I can't see them. There's one of the oddest carvings in the ceiling of the nave though.

I meet some people from the church in the pub, who are confused by my presence, but I have a chicken burger and some elderflower cider, so I'm happy.